Maximilian Davis stepped into the creative director role at Ferragamo in 2022, at just 26, bringing a distinct perspective to the Italian luxury fashion house. Since then, he has turned the brand’s archive into something modern, sensual, slightly rebellious, and definitely relevant. His most recent collection, which he presented during Milan Fashion Week, may be his most assured expression of that instinct yet.
For spring/summer 2027, Davis continued to explore stories of liberation, this time looking specifically to the women of the 1940s. “I was inspired by the women of the era who were taking ownership of their own narrative: who were subjects of imagery but also traveled the world to create their own,” Davis says in the press release. “[During this time] clothing, and its structure, created a certain posture and propriety.”
He considered everything, from pocket placement to women’s fearlessness, shown through the patina of sun-faded leathers, natural fabrications, and prints that echo the topography of terrain. That sense of intentionality came through in other areas, too. Davis played with belts, using them as decorative, waist-defining accessories rather than for their functional necessities, while translucent rubber, closely resembling latex, appeared throughout trench coats, minidresses, pencil skirts, and cropped jackets. Elsewhere, drapery central to Davis’s approach to scarf dressing offered a fluid counterpoint to the structured shapes (think strong shoulders, defined waists and firm fabrics) of the ’40s.
The 63-piece collection turned up the glamour for the Italian fashion house. There was sensuality, but never a sense of trying too hard. The result was clothing for women who know exactly how they want to be seen and, more importantly, how they want to define themselves.
That idea of defining oneself feels particularly fitting for Davis, too. He may not have entered Ferragamo with the name recognition of fashion’s biggest players, but since arriving, he has steadily asserted his own point of view, reshaping the house’s identity. In many ways, he has done what the women at the center of his spring 2027 collection did: taken ownership and made it their own. Four years into the job, Davis has used Ferragamo’s history as a foundation while establishing his own voice and helping the house stay relevant to a new generation. It’s safe to say Ferragamo is in good hands with Davis. Keep scrolling to read all about the spring/summer 2027 collection.
Latexification of Luxury
One thing about Davis is that he’s not afraid to experiment. This season, he pushed the boundaries of modern tailoring and style by integrating unique fabrics and finishes, most notably latex. He not only elevated the rubber material, making it look luxurious and redefining how we see it in fashion, but also executed this bold choice with the utmost elegance. How did he achieve this balance? By grounding the fabrication in classic silhouettes. Davis took simple minidresses, trench coats, pencil skirts, and fitted jackets and rendered them in shades of brown, olive, and muted blue. The translucent material gave off a glossy, wet look while clinging to the body in a tasteful and sculpted way.
Decorative Belting
For his spring/summer 2027 collection, Davis stripped the belt of its utilitarian function and reimagined it as a purely decorative, waist-defining accessory. Rendered in everything from simple black to rich brown leather, the belts became integral to the garments themselves. They were threaded through oversized belt loops on skirts and dresses and wrapped across the chest of thin-strapped dresses. In some looks, two belts were stacked together and threaded through the upper waist of suede and leather dresses.
Curved-Heel Stilettos
Davis doesn’t come to play when it comes to accessories. If you had a chance to take a close look at the collection, you may have noticed Art Deco-inflected jewelry like sculptural drop earrings and cuff bracelets as well as beautiful bags—more on that in a little. But what I want to call out is the footwear, specifically the sculptural heels. Davis drew inspiration from Salvatore Ferragamo’s F Wedges from 1947 and reinterpreted them as sleek, pointed-toe slingbacks—and modern wedges. Some featured a bow embellishment resembling the iconic Vara Bow shoes, while others were adorned with the same jewelry as the earrings or a simple yet elegant croc-effect leather strappy upper. All featured a polished, curved heel that reinforces the desirable, sensual appeal Davis has cultivated for the brand.
Close-to-the-Body Bags
Let’s discuss the bags. The highlight was the new Cara bag, which debuted on the fall 2026 runway and has since been carried by celebrities including Bella Hadid, Emma Roberts, and Monica Barbaro. In the spring collection, the bag retained its distinctive accordion style and iconic Gancini closure, crafted in seasonal leather and suede. The beloved Hug Bag also appeared in an oversized clutch design in classic black, muted green, or rich burgundy leather, as well as in an east-west shape with a new crinkled double silk fabric. Whether or not the bags had straps, they were all worn as clutches and kept in constant contact with the body—held close as if safeguarding something valuable.
Nocturnal Elegance
While the entire collection highlighted the Ferragamo girl’s unapologetic, sensual persona, the second half emphasized it with numerous occasion dresses. Some models wore tulle gowns that draped elegantly across the body, while others wore dense black sequin dresses that formed a lustrous, almost liquid surface and reflected light vividly. High necklines, off-the-shoulder designs, cape-like sleeves, and transparent panels that subtly flashed skin enhanced the confident and polished presence of Davis’s muses.
