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Since launching in 2015, Brandon Blackwood’s accessible luxury handbags have become a cool girl must-have. Following the viral success of styles like the “End Systemic Racism” tote and retro-inspired trunk bags, the New York-based brand has continued to expand its style empire with new categories, including shoes (which include taxi-heel and joint-heel sandals!), swim, and outerwear. In June, Blackwood launched Studio by Brandon Blackwood, the founder-creative director’s first foray into ready-to-wear. He didn’t just dip a toe in the proverbial waters with a small capsule collection, either: This inaugural line has 77 pieces.
“I’ve always wanted to do clothing,” Blackwood tells Refinery29. “Our custom looks really sparked the idea, as we were making these amazing red carpet gowns for some of my idols.” (Prior to the apparel launch, Blackwood has created custom looks for Megan Thee Stallion, Serena Williams, and Beyoncé in the past.) “I wanted our customers to finally have something to wear from the brand as well. I’m all about expansion and pushing the brand’s limits.”
This collection also marks another important expansion for Blackwood: size range. While swim and outerwear offerings stopped at a US size 12, Studio by Brandon Blackwood is available in XS to XXXL. Launching Studio with a broader size range was crucial to Blackwood. “Our customer range is insane. It’s such a blessing to have our brand celebrated by so many different people, regardless of size,” says Blackwood. “I wanted [Studio] to feel inclusive. I didn’t want anyone turned away because they couldn’t find their size or something they didn’t want to wear. The collection has something for everyone.“
As someone who is constantly advocating for more designers to expand their size range, this launch was personally very exciting. However, that excitement was tempered by the knowledge that women’s sizing is infamously inconsistent from brand to brand, so there was still a question of how Studio by Brandon Blackwood would fit on a plus-size figure. There was also the size chart, which equated the largest size (3XL) to a US 14. (It has since been updated to show that 3XL is equivalent to US 18/20). Despite having some initial concerns, I decided to give it a try. And, after testing seven pieces and two sizes, I found multiple items that I loved. Read on for what worked — and didn’t — on me as a size 20.
Studio Brandon Blackwood Convertible Slit Maxi Dress
I selected the ribbed side-zip maxi dress in 3XL first, assuming, per the size chart, that it would be the best fit. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the cut of the dress was generous, and the 3XL too big. I sized down to the 2XL, and it was perfect: form-fitting without being overly tight, with the substantial rib knit feeling supportive but not restricting.
This dress also has a fun surprise feature: There are zippers on both sides that extend to the top of the thigh, so you can show as much (or as little) leg as you want. With the slit unzipped all the way, it is just scandalous enough (in the best way) for a night out. This unzipped look would also work in cooler weather — I’d wear the dress layered over baggy jeans.
Studio Brandon Blackwood Logo Crop Tank Top & Ruched Maxi Skirt
Once I knew the 2XL worked best on me in the dress, I tried this mermaid-esque maxi skirt and cropped cami top in the same size. Both fit wonderfully, which I would not have expected from the conversions on the size chart, even the updated version (I haven’t been a 14/16 for years!). I love the ruching detail on the front and how it can be worn both high- and low-waisted. I tried the same skirt in pink, too, and found the fabric to be consistent in weight and fit across colors (something that is not always the case with brands at a more affordable price point).
Unlike the maxi, the coordinating bodycon mini skirt has a more rigid waistband and a zipper closure, and, in 2XL, squished my waist uncomfortably when fully zipped. For this style, I’d suggest getting your typical size from the chart, even if you, like me, sized down in the ribbed dress.
Studio Brandon Blackwood Mini Jersey Dress & Ribbed Zip Hoodie
Next up was the open-back jersey mini dress. I tried on the 2XL, and it fit comfortably. The fabric on this one feels a little more lightweight — perfect for midsummer heat but something to keep in mind if you’re also thinking of the white colorway. I ended up wearing a seamless nude bodysuit underneath so I didn’t feel too exposed, but I’d have to find a different undergarment setup if I wanted to wear this dress by itself; the low back plunges to the waist, and my bodysuit would have been visible from the back if I didn’t have this cute little hoodie on.
The cropped hoodie was another surprise hit: Even though I knew the ribbed knit fit me well, the other pieces I tried were a more bodycon silhouette, so I didn’t know if I’d get the desired baggy fit in the 2XL. But I was impressed — the fit was exactly as hoped, with both the bodice and sleeves proportioned correctly for my figure.
Speaking to R29 about the sizing, Blackwood says it was “tough” to get the fit “right” for the entire range: “Because the fit was so important, it took a lot of work to make sure all of our pieces worked with varying body types. The [size]grading was done over and over until we got the fit that worked on both a medium and XXL. It took time.” In addition to taking extra steps to get the grading right, Blackwood says that the brand relied on customer feedback on sizing and fit when designing the pieces. “Our customers had a part in curating the overall collection and fit,” Blackwood says. “This allowed us to hone into what different people, of different sizes, wanted from their garments.”
While on paper, the stated range does leave out shoppers above a size 3XL — and I’d love to see more extended plus sizes added in the future — in practice, the generous sizing and substantial stretch knit utilized in much of the debut collection make it work for a broader range of sizes (I’d estimate the 3XL ribbed knit maxi could comfortably fit up to a size 24/26).
The draped jersey dress was the only miss for me —sadly, as this was one of the items I was the most excited about. I tried this style in a 3XL, and while I could get it on my body (once I figured out how the draped layers were meant to be worn), the sleeve openings were too tight on my arms or shoulders, and the dress, as a whole, too small. The cotton jersey blend fabric of this dress felt like it had significantly less stretch than the ribbed fabric, so if you are on the upper end of the size range, I would proceed with caution for this dress and the draped halter maxi in the same material.
When asked about what future apparel collections will bring, Blackwood responded: “As of now, I honestly don’t know. I don’t think I want to make a linear collection of sameness. I want each drop to feel and look different. I have so many different interests, and so many aesthetics catch my eye daily. It’s just like the playlist on my phone, it can go from Lana Del Rey to JT to LoFi jazz. It’d be a disservice to just stick to ‘one thing’. There’s no fun in that.”
Given how well most of the first Studio by Brandon Blackwood collection worked for me, I’ll be tuned in for whatever Blackwood does next.
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