And just like that, Fashion Month is back with a bang, and although the weather in Copenhagen was a chilly and grey affair, on the runway there were plenty of the colours, prints, textures, and viral moments that we’ve come to expect from the burgeoning style capital.
This season’s shows were a game of two halves, on the one hand we had vibrant and experimental from Ganni, Baum Und Pferdgarten, Stine Goya and that wine-stained dress from (Di)vision, on the other, soft and languid luxury from Skall Studio, The Garment, and of course, By Malene Birger. but what is it about Scandi style that has come to make it one of the most discussed cities in the schedule, setting the tone for the month ahead?
“Scandinavian style breaks the mould of how women traditionally dress,” say Jeanette Madsen and Thora Valdimars, Creative Directors of ROTATE, whose high-voltage show saw none other than Real Housewife Lisa Rinna walking the runway. “The Scandinavian woman prefers a casual and comfortable aesthetic, with an emphasis on high quality pieces, and simple yet elegant silhouettes. Scandinavian style is a great example of how to make the everyday into something special, and Copenhagen Fashion Week provides a platform for Scandi style to be shared with the world, from traditional designs to young & creative brands, putting all Scandinavian design on the world stage.”
“Scandinavian women favour wearable items, high quality, beautifully made pieces, that never go out of style,” adds Denise Christensen, CEO & Creative Director at REMAIN. “Many of the brands that show at Copenhagen Fashion Week celebrate this Scandinavian style, by showing items that can stand the test of time, compared to some of the other Fashion capitals, where style is largely trend based.” So, with a focus on quality, longevity, and considered, wearable pieces, there is a lot to learn from the Copenhagen runways to refresh our wardrobes for the season ahead. But as Madsen and Valdimars point out, the perfect, balanced wardrobe might just be a mix of UK and Danish style.
“The London girl’s dress sense is often more unique and incredibly personal. You see many more people favouring loud, bohemian style in London than in Scandinavia. But we do think that there is something to learn from classic Scandinavian minimalism, where less is more. Vice versa, Danish girls can learn from the daring, free-spirited and individual style of the Londoners, Scandi style tends to be repetitive, so it is always fun to shake it up a bit!”
In a bid to predict which Scandi trends will fare well in your wardrobe in the year ahead, we’ve asked the experts and rounded up 8 of the biggest trends to come out of Copenhagen Fashion Week for Autumn/Winter 2023. From reworked denim, to one very unexpected colour trend, keep scrolling to see and shop the most discussed looks before anyone else.
Style Notes: Every year there is a strong coat trend that will see us through the coldest seasons, and a patent coat always delivers, come rain or shine. Sleek, sophisticated, and always polished, a glossy, coated trench manages to up the style factor of any look, invariably becoming an entire outfit in itself. From Fillipa K’s burnt sienna to Ganni’s yellow snakeskin (more on that later), we’ll always be loyal to the classic cotton trench, but we’re making space in our wardrobes for it’s cooler, younger sister. It’s the one piece wonder that works for day or night, cosy-casual, or dressed to the nines.
Style Notes: Whether you refer to it as a “Canadian tuxedo” or simply “double denim”, just don’t call it passé, as denim on denim is back–and it’s far more fashionable than its retro connotations. Forget the unflattering fit of the 80s, and the Britney and Justin pairing of the Noughties, this is denim made luxe, and if it fits well and looks good, why not wear it all at once? There’s something for everyone in this casual fit, and from Skall Studio’s indigo flares, through to Gestuz’s acid wash jacket and wide-leg, this is the new way to wear your favourite jeans. Just don’t forget your jacket.
Style Notes: “We can see the biggest trends of 2023 being all about contrasts,” note Madsen and Valdimars. “We are very excited by the come-back of the colour black, but balancing it out with exaggerated silhouettes, it’s the moment for ‘All or Nothing’ dressing! These were some of the main sources of inspiration for our A/W’23 collection, where we presented a paired back colour palette, focusing on the power of black, but featuring extravagant silhouettes and details. We also play with the contrast of very elegant, feminine forms next to fun, young, playful silhouettes, balancing contrasting styles to create something inherently unique.”
Style Notes: Buttermilk, canary, custard, or lemon, this joyous trend is best served sunny side up. What better way to brighten up the grey days of autumn/ winter than a bold new colour trend, and a celebration of yellow is long overdue. With recent collections focusing on the playful positivity that we missed during lockdown, yellow gives us a welcome dose of unbridled optimism that makes the wearer (and everyone who sees it) feel immediately happier. Only Copenhagen would give us one one of the most vibrant and elating trends of the last year, just look at the track record of some of their most noted street style stars Janka Polliani, Marianne Theodorsen, and Emili Sindlev. The epitome of dopamine dressing.
Style Notes: We’re always on the lookout for a micro trend that we can easily factor into our every day looks, and who would have thought that the humble sock would become such a sought after piece? An easy way to add a demure, ladylike feel to an outfit, socks reappeared time and time again on the Copenhagen runways, pulled up to the knee, or casually rolled down around the ankle. Baum Und Pferdgarten’s Argyle wool socks were the perfect accessory for a Margot Tenenbaum inspired collection, and Fillipa K’s sheer knee-highs were an unexpectedly chic addition to a pair of open toe mules. Could this be the end of tights? It remains to be seen. But, it’s about time that hosiery had a fresh, new update.
Style Notes: Just when we thought that the naked dress was back and more sheer than ever, the Copenhagen catwalks showcased see-through skirts, shirts, and even coats, so this season it’s clear–less is more. Presenting the sheer alternative to the little black dress in the form of a sugary, sweet, barely there mesh (see Stine Goya), or vampy lace (courtesy of Ganni), the only rule of thumb is to be prepared to bare all. Should you be wondering how to make such a risqué trend suitable for real life rather than runway, take tips from the designers and stack gauzy layers over modest black underwear, and follow Gestuz’s lead by adding casual denim and a knee-high boot.
Style Notes: Asymmetric hems, supersized silhouettes, cut-outs and twisted seams, how ever you wear your tailoring this year, make sure it isn’t a simple shirt, as you’re going to get a lot of wear out for suiting for the next year ahead. “We’re currently loving playing with a muted colour palette, and I can see this being big trend for the year ahead,” predicts Christensen. “But above all, the biggest trend is longevity of garments, we see more and more consumers choosing high quality, wardrobe classics over trend based pieces, and this is something we deeply believe in. For me the ultimate wardrobe classic will always be a statement coat and a beautifully tailored suit ”
Animal prints are back on the prowl, and while last year was the turn of zebra, the big cats are back with a delightfully retro feel. From Saks Potts cartoonish leopard, to ROTATE’s doubled up print, there is air of camp clashing that wouldn’t feel out of place on 80s sitcom The Nanny, or the 90’s Absolutely Fabulous. “The 80s will always be a great source of inspiration for us. This was a time when women were experiencing new found liberation, and the fashion reflects that,” add Madsen and Valdimars. “It was a time for power women and power dressing–both of which are key principles for ROTATE. The AW/23 collection is influenced by rock ‘n’ roll fashion throughout the ages, so where the 80s does play a major role in this, we have also dipped our toes into 90s and 00s references when building the range.”
