As someone who has a 71-year-old beauty fanatic as her mother (surprising I became a beauty editor, right?), I know all too well the trials and tribulations surrounding foundation and mature skin. Of course, finding the best foundation for your skin texture, tone and type is hard enough at any age, but when you throw into the mix age-related conundrums like discolouration from sun damage, fine lines or wrinkles and dehydration, the challenge only gets steeper.
Being that my mum is an actual makeup artist, I’ve definitely absorbed some of her wisdom and tips over the years—minimal, if any, powder and absolutely no super-matte formulas. She has flawless skin (both with and without makeup), so I’ve taken her guidance to heart. That said, I was interested to compare notes with some of the top celebrity makeup artists in the industry who regularly cater to Hollywood’s leading ladies 40 and over. What foundations do they always have on hand for red carpet prep, and what application tips do they hold gospel to ensure their clients with mature skin look as radiant and healthy as possible? They’re covering all that and more below. Keep scrolling!
Every makeup artist we spoke to explained that without a well-prepped base (i.e. hydrated and healthy skin) any foundation application will flounder. Prepping the skin with the right products and ample moisture is crucial for a seamless, long-lasting finish.
“I am really, really big on prep—prep is EVERYTHING,” exclaims celebrity makeup artist Tamah Krinsky, whose clients include Julianna Margulies, Mary Steenburgen, Judy Greer, Idina Menzel and Christy Turlington. “Regardless of age, how you prep your skin determines how your foundation will sit on your skin, and the more hydrated and healthy your skin is to start, the better your foundation will look. My clients would tell you skin prep is the longest part of their time in the makeup chair with me!”
Krinsky recommends starting the process with a luxe spray like Josh Rosebrook’s Hydration Accelerator (£35) before moving onto an oil. She typically applies around six drops, although it depends on the day and client. “I take three to five minutes to massage the oil from the hairline to the collarbones. It’s amazing what that alone can do for your complexion! My favourites are Drunk Elephant Virgin Marula Oil (£61), Eve Lom Radiance Face Oil (£60) and the Josh Rosebrook Herbal Infusion Oil (£44),” she says.
Afterward, she’ll press a pea-sized amount of moisturiser into the skin to lock all the magic in. She loves anything from Drunk Elephant, Dr. Hauschka or La Roche-Posay.
So the jury is out on whether or not it’s best to use brushes or a damp sponge (like our beloved Beautyblender, £17) for foundation application. Our makeup artists were equally divided in their preference! So we recommend trying both methods to see what you prefer. That said, if you go the brush route, Krinsky recommends using multiple sizes and always reaching for a brush with synthetic brush fibres versus natural hair.
“No matter what foundation I’m using, I always use two brushes—one to deposit the formula and one to blend,” she confirms. “I like to use brushes on the smaller side so I can be specific and blend around the structure of the face. To deposit foundation, I use a small flat synthetic eye shadow brush. Synthetic brushes don’t hold onto pigment and products as much as natural hair brushes, so you save your products from being wasted, and they leave the foundation where you put them.”
To blend, Krinsky tells us she switches to a medium-sized fluffy eye shadow contour brush. Although her brush process takes more time than using a Beautyblender, she thinks it offers more precision in addition to a more seamless result.
Sorry, but finding the right foundation—consistency, finish and shade—takes some time and effort. And Krinsky is especially adamant about taking the time to find your perfect shade.
“Make sure you are matching your skin tone,” she advises. “Always ask for a sample (or better yet, multiple!) and look at yourself in daylight. It should look 100% seamless, and if it isn’t, it’s the wrong shade for you.”
“Only use foundation where you need it,” Krinsky adds. “Use small amounts, and take your time to blend them into your skin. You don’t have to apply a huge amount of foundation to your entire face. You should be using it to even out your skin tone—not to cover your skin.”
Both Murphy and Chanel makeup artist Kate Lee (who counts women like Charlize Theron and Jessica Chastain as regular clients) recommend eliminating—or at least limiting—your powder usage since it can sit into mature skin’s fine lines and make a person look older.
“If I need powder, I use a transparent HD powder on a dampened Beautyblender and roll it into the skin,” shares Lee.
“Let’s be real—online swatches are never 100% accurate, and shade names aren’t standardised, so it’s best to tap into a brand’s customer service or a trained makeup artist, whose job it is to know everything, from the curation of foundations to formulation to finish,” explains Violet Grey’s beauty director, Maureen Choi. “A quick email exchange or phone call with a trusted resource who understands your skin and makeup concerns can make all the difference in receiving the perfect fit on your doorstep.
“Sometimes you have to try before you buy, particularly when it comes to foundation. A good rule of thumb is to ask for samples in three shades—the one you’ve shade-matched to your complexion, then one shade lighter and one shade deeper. That way, you can test all three in broad daylight and get an accurate sense of what looks best. According to makeup artist and Violet Grey committee member Pati Dubroff, using two shades of foundation—a light shade down the centre of the face and one a shade darker along the perimeter—is the secret to getting the most natural, subtly defined, second-skin look.”
