It might have been raining on the streets of Copenhagen this fashion week, but indoors the runways were awash with colour and spectacle, and we’ve come to expect nothing less from the most anticipated city in the Fashion Month schedule. In the Who What Wear office the general consensus is that Copenhagen is the place to spot the next season-defining trends, and as Scandi women are changing our approach to cool-girl styling, who better to ask for tips on how to dress than a certified expert? We spoke to Denise Christensen, CEO of Birger Christensen Collective ahead of the REMAIN and ROTATE runway shows to get her take on Scandi vs UK fashion, and which trends from Copenhagen Fashion Week deserve a spot in your wardrobe for the season ahead.
“Scandinavian girls have a sporty, casual simplicity around their lifestyle, that can also be seen in the way they dress,” notesChristensen, “and women favour wearable items, high-quality, and beautifully made pieces, that will never go out of style. But the major difference between Danish and London girls is that London girls know how to dress up! This could definitely be injected into Scandinavian style, where casual is always favoured. But vice versa, as much as we can see the trend catching on, I can definitely see the easy-going, minimal aesthetic of Scandinavian style being a great addition to the London scene.” And, we’re inclined to agree. In fact, we’ve been taking notes on what Scandi women will and won’t wear in a bid to streamline our wardrobes. But what is it that sets CPHFW apart from New York, London, Milan and Paris?
“One thing we are incredibly passionate about at Birger Christensen Collective, is the identification and championing of new design talents, and this is shared by Copenhagen Fashion Week. As opposed to the other major Fashion Weeks, Copenhagen has an amazing sense of calm and community around it, whilst not compromising on the level of design. We are lucky to show all of our brands at Copenhagen Fashion Week this season: REMAIN, ROTATE and Cannari-Concept, and we are always blown away by the support and positivity from the attendees at CPHFW.”
You only need to take a cursory look through street style pictures at CPHFW to be able to spot the joyful and easy Danish approach to dressing, but there are a few key pieces you can expect to see in every fashion person’s closet. “It is not a secret that the Danish weather can be quite unpredictable, and so a good variety of jackets and coats is a must in any Danish woman’s wardrobe,” says Christensen, “and it is something that is built into almost all collections across the Birger Christensen Collective brand. REMAIN specialises in hand-made leather outerwear, and beautiful tailored jackets and coats, whilst ROTATE offers fun and colourful options. Our newest brand, Cannari-Concept has amazing oversized options, that work throughout the seasons too, so outerwear is everything.”
So, what can we expect from Spring Summer 2024? In short, the re-emergence of a particularly versatile colour, a modern take on hyper-femininity, and one Y2K inspired denim trend that just won’t quit says Christensen. Keep scrolling for the five Copenhagen Fashion Week trends that are going to be making a splash next year, according to an expert.
Yes, you read that correctly. Long gone are the days of the Britney and Justin connotations, and the Canadian tuxedo has undergone a fashionable makeover that Copenhagen is committing to full throttle. “Head-to-toe denim is most definitely here to stay,” says Christensen. “Whilst denim has always been a wardrobe essential, when worn as a full tonal denim look, the finished outfit is both elevated and cool.”
After Barbie pink and hot reds it’s time for a palette cleanser, and thankfully SS’24 has just the thing. “Earthy tones are big this season,” notes Christensen. “There has been a real moment for colour recently, but I can see natural colours coming back into favour, allowing the silhouettes and fabrics to take priority.”
We shelved our skinny jeans a long time ago, and wide-leg trousers have been a wardrobe staple for the last couple of years. But, as the old adage goes, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, and designers are continuing to celebrate the supersized trouser says Christensen. “Across REMAIN and Cannari-Concept in particular, we are showing super wide-leg trousers, from tailored pants to slouchy, cargo style denim, and this a trend I see growing and growing in popularity.”
Forgot frothy tulle and floral prints for next spring/summer, as 2024’s take on hyper-femininity all revolves around one thing. The cinched waist. “After many seasons of drop waists, columns, and low rise fits, the tailored, ultra-cinched waist is coming back in a big way”. You heard it here first.
Want a look that really stands out from the crowd? It’s time to up the volume and play with proportions suggests Christensen. “From exaggerated shoulders to asymmetric finishes (with plenty of cocoon shapes to bell sleeves), it is all about choosing something unique to create an outfit out of simple pieces this season.” So before you reach for that minimalist, 90s bandeau top, try a full-sleeved shirt underneath a la ROTATE, or even add a wide-leg trouser to tick off two major trends at once.
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