Mild spoilers for Sirens, premiering on May 22, ahead.
In Netflix’s new steamy thriller Sirens, on the lavish grounds of Cliff House — located on an exclusive, unnamed island in the vein of Martha’s Vineyard — the decadent dress code is more than just an etiquette guideline. “What is this place and why does everyone look like an Easter egg?!” exclaims Devon (Meghann Fahy) to her estranged younger sister Simone (Milly Alcock), an assistant to the palatial beach estate’s doyenne, Michaela Kell (Julianne Moore) — or “Kiki” to the anointed.
Surrounded by floral-clad Stepford-type denizens, a disheveled Devon, out of place in all black, pleads for help from Simone, who, in contrast, is wearing brash pink. Their father, Bruce (Bill Camp), has dementia, but Simone refuses to leave her formidable boss and the lap of luxury. Devon surmises that her baby sister has been seduced by a cult led by the enigmatic Michaela. A suspenseful push and pull of women’s relationships, money, and power ensues — and the luxurious wardrobes by costume designer Caroline Duncan offer figurative Easter eggs leading to the climactic finale.
Devon’s Subversive Black Outfit
Arriving at Cliff House after a night in jail and a grueling 17-hour journey from Buffalo – including bus, ferry, and on-foot travel — Devon hasn’t changed out of her all-black outfit: a black tank top, a Babaton mini skirt, and Thursday combat boots. “When we meet Devon, she’s at a low point,” says Duncan. “She’s got alcohol and sexual impulsivity issues, and we wanted to put her in something where we could see the scabs and dirt on her skin, but also show that she’s emboldened by showing her skin. Part of her addiction comes from that confidence.”
On the ferry, Devon visually — and spiritually — clashes with the posh summering crowd in pastel outfits straight out of Lilly Pulitzer and Vineyard Vines campaigns. But things are about to change, and the mint-green lace trim that Duncan added to Devon’s camisole alludes to Michaela’s meticulously manicured enclave and the intrigue to come. “Planting that little seed of her journey,” says Duncan.
Michaela’s Otherworldly Neutrals
Devon becomes convinced that Michaela, who’s planning an extravagant Labor Day fundraiser gala for her rare bird preservation charity, is a cult leader. Adding to the vibe, the philanthropist — in a billowing white halter tunic and flowy pants — wields a fowl-topped baton to lead her devotées in an invocation of her sign-off mantra: “Hey, hey.”
“Our intent was to always have the audience questioning what the mythos surrounding her, and the lore of her, was,” says Duncan, who custom-made most of Moore’s other costumes. “I wanted her to feel like she was always floating and above the fracas of the real world.”
Taking inspiration from ‘70s-era Lee Radziwill and Italian brand Alberta Ferretti’s ethereal silhouettes, Duncan made Michaela’s halter ensemble with vintage silk from a distributor also used by Halston, a brand whose silky garments were worn by the likes of Liza Minnelli and Bianca Jagger. Later, the de facto empress of the island presides over her disciples in a luminous one-shoulder caftan gown by The Row.
Duncan imagined that the ambitious lawyer-turned-billionaire-trophy-wife made her mark on the impressionable island community by formulating a color-coded wardrobe “rulebook.” But, in the ultimate flex, Michaela’s own distinctive palette of neutrals is an ongoing, eye-catching exception. “Everyone else around Michaela is in this flutter of beautiful color, and she’s this visual pause,” says Duncan. “Which, of course, means that she’s the person you’re looking at, at all times, in the room.”
Michaela’s alabaster layers also boldly counter Devon’s rebellious, grungey style as the two face off over Simone’s allegiance toward the end of episode one. “Everybody else in between them is in a powder puff of color, but the two are the binaries of the show,” says Duncan.
Simone’s Try-Hard Pinks and Commanding Blues
Simone regularly barks orders at the Cliff House staff through a megaphone. Her bright pink mod-style dress with a precious white trim, from a Goop x Lilly Pulitzer collaboration, amplifies her relentless determination to fulfill Michaela’s directives.
“Simone’s got to be obnoxious,” says Duncan. “It’s like the dial is just turned up way too high. She’s vibrating far too brightly, and she’s trying way too hard to fit in. So everything about her feels extra, and she is in a hotter color than everyone else in that world.”
As Simone’s character evolves, she transitions to cooler shades of blue, starting with a custom sleeveless Pulitzer-referential dress. “Blue very much felt like a moment; a marker for Simone feeling more in control,” says Duncan, who also made an exquisitely draped, silvery-blue asymmetrical gown for Simone for a jaw-dropping moment later in the season.
“She starts to feel a little bit bolder and a step wiser,” says Duncan, “Her need for this perfection, and her desire to match Michaela’s level of perfection, starts to wane.”
Devon’s Red Statement Dress
After her initial showdown with Michaela, Devon is briefly banished to a luxury hotel on the island — on the Kell family tab. Taking advantage of her new expense account to finally change out of her two-day-old outfit, she buys a bold crimson Francesca Miranda dress, featuring the Colombia-based designer’s pata de cabra technique of slinky, draped strips of fabric.
“It felt like Devon would love that dress, because it’s exoskeletal and it moves and it’s bold,” says Duncan, who worked with the label to customize the dress with monochrome red lining. “It moves so beautifully, and the color is so defiant. We’re not a world of primary colors in Sirens.”
As the signature color of Devon’s hometown team, the Buffalo Bills, red also indicates Devon’s humble roots — something Simone disavows by cryptically saying she’s from “upstate.”
Devon’s Michaela-Approved Outfits
In an effort to “extract” Simone, Devon decides to infiltrate the presumed cult and ingratiates herself with Michaela by agreeing to dress the part. She changes into a Michaela-approved sleeveless shift dress with a vintage Lilly Pulitzer print, delicate cut-outs at the neckline, and fabric-covered buttons. Michaela’s dress choice conveys her control and manipulation of Devon at Cliff House, with Duncan referring to the look as a “cage dress.”
“There’s a lot of intention to that. Michaela is putting her in a dress that feels very ‘60s,” continues Duncan. “To Devon, that image of a ‘perfect housewife’ is her nightmare version of femininity.” Devon even devises her own chant, as she dons a padded lilac Jennifer Behr headband and matching ballet flats by Christian Louboutin. “Fuck you, Michaela,” she mutters. “Fuck you, Michaela.”
But, nearly overnight, Devon eases into her second Cliff House-coded outfit: a yellow-and-blue shift dress with a seashell print, Castaner sandals, and an adorable lemon-shaped straw bag. “As we get further and further into our story, she is tempted by the siren call of this world,” says Duncan.
Devon’s Goddess Gala Gown
Ahead of the opulent Labor Day gala, Devon luxuriates in her own Pretty Woman-esque shopping montage — cheered on by Michaela’s free-spending society cronies: The Fates-like Lisa, Astrid, and Cloe (Erin Neufer, Emily Borromeo, and Jen Lyon, respectively).
“I look like Beetlejuice,” opines Devon, drowning in a voluminous yellow Carolina Herrera dress covered in ruffles and giant black polka dots. She also nixes a feather-blanketed Marchesa gown and oversized hat by Rachel Trevor Morgan and a jarringly bright yellow column gown with a colossal bow at the back by Alexia María with custom Lacrasia gloves. But Devon falls under the spell of an ombrê purple goddess dress with a plunging neckline, finished off with a golden laurel tiara.
“She would need to feel incredibly powerful and beautiful,” says Duncan, who custom-designed the “painterly” gown with elements that would express, and appeal to, Devon.
“This deep plunge and very, very minimalist bust, with more of a rock ‘n’ roll element pulled through it,” continues Duncan. “Even though it’s quite a feminine and Grecian silhouette, it’s also got an edge to it that keeps it in Devon’s world.”
Micaela’s Majestic Jewel Tones
As Simone’s traumatic past and Michaela’s true intentions come to the fore, the latter’s neutrals transition into jewel tones — like a sleeveless emerald green dress with a flowing train by Maria Cornejo.
“We’re bringing Simone and Michaela’s color palettes closer together,” says Duncan, explaining how the draped and twisted details of Michaela’s green dress mirror a sapphire gown that Simone tries on in her boss’ walk-in closet.
Michaela readies for the high-stakes gala in a resplendent strapless marigold gown accessorized with a stunning Solange statement necklace and earrings set. “She’s the queen of this society. She’s the leader,” says Duncan. “She’s a goddess.”
But all reigns come to an end, by will or not — and all the Easter eggs leading to the explosive finale lie hidden in the costumes.
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
