Schiaparelli has a longstanding reputation for being one of the most avant-garde, subversive designer brands on the Paris Fashion Week schedule. While that isn’t changing, there was a new element present in the iconic fashion house’s S/S 27 collection: wearability.
While practically works of art, the Schiaparelli looks that you see on Nicole Kidman, Dua Lipa, Zendaya, and Kylie Jenner on the red carpet probably aren’t going to be all that wearable on someone without those levels of fame. And that’s perfectly fine—each fashion house serves a different purpose, and Schiaparelli doesn’t mass-produce the pieces you see on the runway each season. But this collection made it clear that creative director Daniel Roseberry decided to take things in a slightly different direction. It felt a bit softer and less surreal, without straying from the sense of drama that Elsa Schiaparelli established when she created her namesake brand. Roseberry gave an idea of his intentions, writing in the show notes, “As fashion designers, we become so attached to our vision that we spend less time thinking about the person who’ll ultimately wear it. The beauty of making such extraordinary clothes for such a limited number of stores is that that gap doesn’t exist: what we show is what we produce is what is purchased is what is worn. We don’t have a “commercial” collection. These are the clothes. The vision is complete when you put them on your back.”
Schiaparelli has long been known for eveningwear, so it makes sense that Roseberry established several 2027 trends in that category from the runway staged in the basement of the Carrousel du Louvre at PFW yesterday. High-profile guests such as Tate McRae, Law Roach, and Peggy Gou took in the elegantly seductive collection from the front row. Scroll on to get to know the eveningwear trends the industry is buzzing about post-show.
The Return of Low Necklines
The most alluring eveningwear has long been synonymous with plunging necklines, and Schiaparelli’s S/S 27 collection is an excellent indicator of the return of the silhouette. It’s worth noting that each of the low necklines was unique, with some in the form of sculptural asymmetrical shapes, others with gathered fabric held in place by gold hardware, and others melding with an off-the-shoulder design.
Sculptural Ruffles
I recently highlighted sculptural ruffles as one of the biggest trends of the NYFW S/S 27 runways, and Roseberry appears to agree. The trend is in perfect step with Schiaparelli’s artistic, theatrical aesthetic.
Embroidered Jackets Are Here to Stay
Using archival embroideries for a handful of ornate fitted jackets, Roseberry paid homage to Elsa Schiaparelli with the final looks of the collection. I’ll take this as proof that the brocade, jacquard, and embroidered jackets that have become one of F/W 26’s biggest trends will continue into next year.
Shorts of Every Length
Several shorts trends were present and accounted for, from micro to bermuda lengths. But casual looks these were not. The shorts of Schiaparelli S/S 27 were elegant and event-worthy, fitting right in with the dresses and satin trousers they were shown alongside.
Jewelry-Like Details
It wouldn’t be a Schiaparelli collection without numerous touches of gold hardware throughout. It was spotted in the form of an accent on waist-defining draping, as a ring closure to tops and dresses, and even as jewelry-like nipple covers.
