“A light shines all the more brightly because we know it cannot be held. What passes sometimes leaves more light than what remains,” Anthony Vaccarello wrote in the show notes for his Saint Laurent spring/summer 2027 runway that was just staged during Paris Fashion Week. Rumors immediately began swirling about his departure. Was it a farewell message? The designer, who has been at the helm of the French maison since 2016, hasn’t given any indication of making any career moves, yet the crowd that gathered underneath the glimmering lights of the Eiffel Tower the evening of the show whispered otherwise.
Everything was cast in gold, from the looks the models walked in to the massive golden chandeliers that towered high above them. “I love gold, it’s a magical color,” Yves Saint Laurent himself once said. “When reflecting a woman, it’s the color of the sun.” Vaccarello seemed to take that sentiment to heart. Gold was not a mere accent but the entire language of the collection, and it appeared as liquid lamé, burnished satin, and metallic leather that caught the light with every step. The sharp-shouldered tailoring and languid evening wear that have defined his tenure were all present but rendered in a golden glow that felt oddly wistful, as if the clothes were already becoming memories.
Whether or not the notes were a legitimate goodbye, the show still prompted a conversation around legacy and what a designer leaves behind at a house. Below, see the standout looks and the emerging trends to know for next season from Saint Laurent’s spring/summer 2027 collection.
A Rumored Farewell
Was it a farewell show, or are we collectively reading into it? Vaccarello’s show notes handed the rumor mill plenty to work with, and the talk of his alleged departure from Saint Laurent began almost as soon as the final model exited the runway. Fueled by the notes’ wistful language and one epic spectacle of a finale, speculation naturally ensued. Vaccarello has given no public sign that he’s leaving, however, and the house has not announced any change. Still, it’s hard to ignore how the collection played into the mood.
The Golden Age
“Vaccarello builds his Summer 2027 collection by gilding the most iconic archetypes of the Saint Laurent wardrobe from over the decades: the sahariennes, trenches, blouses, and wrap skirts of Monsieur Saint Laurent’s era, to the new house classics of Vaccarello’s invention, such as the strong-shouldered coats, voluminous blousons, and short, precise suits edged with swathes of fur,” the show notes read. “Together they evoke the golden age of Saint Laurent reimagined by Vaccarello for the present.”
Brocade, Brocade, Brocade
Brocade is surging in popularity this fall, but according to this runway, the opulent texture is only set to continue its relevance throughout next season. It’s a good reason to start shopping for a brocade-finished piece to invest in for the seasons to come.
Pencil-Skirt Sets
The overarching silhouette of this collection is one Vaccarello has been fine-tuning for a while now: how to style a knee-length pencil skirt. For spring/summer 2027, the idea was clear: marry the close-fitting skirt with a coordinating jacket, especially one that’s boxy and ’80s-inspired.
The Micro-Trend to Know: Fur-Trimmed Cuffs
The micro-trend to know for next season? None other than fur-trimmed cuffs that had us zooming in on the runway images to get a closer look. The luxe detail was a finishing touch on several structured jackets, long-sleeve minidresses, and even bodysuits, dialing up the opulence even more on these gold-jacquard pieces.
