London Fashion Week hasn’t been its normal self for a long time now thanks to Covid 19, and this season’s schedule had to be reworked and partially cancelled due to The Queen’s passing. This led some brands, including Burberry and Raf Simons, to decide to cancel their shows altogether as a mark of respect, but the majority of the brands soldiered on, with many acknowledging the period of mourning with moving tributes. Not only are runway shows eye-wateringly expensive to stage and prepare for, but this is, after all, a prime time for designers and their teams, having spent the past six months (at the very least) working tirelessly to produce collections, the show circuit provides the main opportunity to gather exposure and shore up your company’s financial future—the British fashion industry has taken hit after hit in the last few years so it was imperative that our homegrown talent had the support of the industry to keep things bouyant during yet another turbulent season. Which is why it’s more important than ever that you take note of the names and their collections here. London is known as a hotbed for rising talent and this season, despite all odds, that vibe and buzz felt like it was coming through strongly with relatively new names taking up the space in coverage and on our phones through the many videos and stills editors, buyers, stylists and influencer notch up over the course of a few days.
There was a sense of romance, optimisim and “dressing for the occasion” on the catwalks with party clothes being a predominant fixture. Elaborate fabrics, dramatic silhouettes and pretty colours were all undercut in the way that only LFW designers know how—there’s always something grungey and casual about the way Brits do fancy. From OTT T-shirts to a slew of see-through dresses (do you think they’ll come with linings when they hit the shop floors?), these were the key trends of London Fashion Week’s spring/summer 2023 shows.
Molly Goddard’s tulle skirts are a signature style and never lose their power. I loved the vibrant coral tulle midi with an equally bold highlighter-pink cardigan.
Chopova Lowena’s pleated and belted skirts have been a popular street style choice. Just like Molly Goddard, this is one brand that remains true to its aesthetic year after year, so these styles are timeless despite their ability to make a statement.
Erdem’s romantic full skirts and dresses were nothing short of breathtaking.
Whenever full skirts are in fashion, I come back to a classic tutu style.
Trust Christopher Kane to give an oversized white T-shirt some sex appeal—this whole collection was risqué but in the very coolest ways.
Dilara Findikoglu warped lace and satin dresses with metal brand tees to great effect.
JW Anderson’s creased and embellished T-shirt dress is going to be a streetwear favourite next year—trust me.
I am 100 per cent obsessed with this tee.
16 Arlington is loved for slinky dresses and this shiny, see-through snake-print number somehow still manages to be understated thanks to the demure cut and soft grey hues.
Huishan Zhang does unadultered pretty with extra sparkles on top—just the way we like it.
Simone Rocha’s stunning dresses balance out sheer fabrics with volume and frivolity.
Everyone will ask you where you got this dress from.
The entirity of Rejina Pyo’s collection was like an amuse bouche for fashion—a total refresher of the palette with charmingly muted (but still unusual) colours.
This soft chartreuse dress from Eudon Choi was particularly darling.
S.S. Daley’s sage suiting sets the mood for a more pared-back spring/summer than we’ve seen in a while.
Soft-hued trench coats are a great way to tap into the look all year around.
London’s designers love a barely-there dress but this season it’s all about counteracting the sass with ultra-long hemlines. Case in point: Nensi Dojaka.
Karoline Vitto’s dedication to showcasing fabulous clothes on a more inclusize sizing range proves this kind of trend doesn’t have to be for straight-size people only.
Standing Ground is the the name to know from LFW this season and these wrapped, draped and buckled maxi dresses are set to be crazy-popular for 2023.
A LBD to rival all LBDs.
London girls aren’t shy of making an entrance or exit, which a trailing train is particularly good for. Here, Ancuta Sarca combines the formal idea with a sporty aesthetic.
David Koma’s girls are high octane and their trains come covered in sequins and feathers.
Halpern’s disco-inspired eveningwear pieces were even more striking thanks to satin trains.
You could credit Prada with this whole train revival moment. Next up, the trends of this current AW22 season.
